Apehanger project

Took the plunge today and ordered 16" apehanger bars for my C800. That's the easy bit! I read Dave's thorough write up ( LINK ) of extending wiring a while back and whilst I could handle that myself, the rest of the cables will be out of my comfort zone. So I've found a highly recommended localish bike mechanic who does all sorts of customisations. The work will need to be done in one place so I shall ask him to do the lot! He recons on 2 hours once the cables have arrived but with the electrical work I recon longer. Anyway, we have spoken and the first stage will be to go over with bike and bars to be measured up for the cables. Going to cost I know but I did plan doing this when I bought the bike. One question, the mirrors will be very high up - any ideas for mounting underneath maybe?

John,
Having mirrors so high - at your head level - is the best thing you can have.
Glancing left and right to check them will be so much easier and quicker.

I've been riding with 16" ones for quite a while now and I'd never have the mirrors lower.

MarcinG wrote:

John,
Having mirrors so high - at your head level - is the best thing you can have.
Glancing left and right to check them will be so much easier and quicker.

I've been riding with 16" ones for quite a while now and I'd never have the mirrors lower.

 That's good to know Marcin - one less thing to worry about!

Be good to see these when they're fitted 

John, Dave (Mr Intruder took one of the chrome arms out of the stock mirrors or shortened it (not sure which) and then remounted them. looks good. Not sure if there is a pick of it like that on here tho?

Is this is the image?:

Thanks Crash. Dave, did you cut and re tap?

No John, that's a picture tacken just before the Suzuki800 France trip of 2013. It was done just to show the wind deflector that I made up and put on the bars. It worked brilliantly, even at 100mph I had no real wind in my face, even with my open face helmet.

Here are two pictures, of what was mentioned. I just removed the 45 degree angle & mounted the mirror on top of the bar mount. Hope this helps, works well with the apes.

 

Mr Intruder wrote:

Here are two pictures, of what was mentioned. I just removed the 45 degree angle & mounted the mirror on top of the bar mount. Hope this helps, works well with the apes.

 

That's clever!   . Bars should arrive tomorrow - I'll probably run round the house with them going "Rmmm Rmmm!" until the weather is nice enough to go and see my man. 

Bluesman wrote:

Mr Intruder wrote:

Here are two pictures, of what was mentioned. I just removed the 45 degree angle & mounted the mirror on top of the bar mount. Hope this helps, works well with the apes.

 

That's clever!   . Bars should arrive tomorrow - I'll probably run round the house with them going "Rmmm Rmmm!" until the weather is nice enough to go and see my man. 

simbo wrote:

 

Here they are still wrapped in protective sleeve. I Went to see my man. He wants me to get clutch and throttle cables. Hmmm I was hoping he would do that. If I have to get them, I might do some of it myself. I Wonder if Dave's re-routing of clutch cable method will work as these are 16" rise plus standard bar clamps?

Yes it would John because I had 14" bars on 2" riser extentions. I no longer have riser extentions but have 16" bars. So simply put, yes it would, as long as the clutch cable is still the same length as 2010 models. 

Sorry but I aint got time to cross reference the cable # maybe Sim has?

Mr Intruder wrote:

Yes it would John because I had 14" bars on 2" riser extentions. I no longer have riser extentions but have 16" bars. So simply put, yes it would, as long as the clutch cable is still the same length as 2010 models. 

Sorry but I aint got time to cross reference the cable # maybe Sim has?

 I have a 2013 so assuming the cables are the same it may be worth having a shot.

Bluesman wrote:

Mr Intruder wrote:

Yes it would John because I had 14" bars on 2" riser extentions. I no longer have riser extentions but have 16" bars. So simply put, yes it would, as long as the clutch cable is still the same length as 2010 models. 

Sorry but I aint got time to cross reference the cable # maybe Sim has?

 I have a 2013 so assuming the cables are the same it may be worth having a shot.

Same cables 

simbo wrote:

Same cables 

Thanks for confirming.

Cheers Sim.

Took off the tank today helped by Sim's 'how to do' thread a while back (thanks!). Could see clearly how the clutch cable will be re-routed so that will be OK when the time comes. Went to Maplins and had a look at heat shrink sleeve and heat gun - I will be ok with the electrical splicing! Now the only fly in the ointment is the throttle cable. I could see the mechanism clearly and although the bar end cable removal would be easy enough, the push pull wheel would not be something I'd want to mess with. I apparently need to take the cables from the bike to get them copied but longer. Don't want to leave the bike anywhere so I will either get someone to take off the cables for me at home or buy a duplicate pair just to leave with the cable maker about 45 minutes from here. Complicated! Still, now I'm clear what I can and can't do myself.

Fitted the bars on the bike today to see what they will be like - wow brilliant; felt so comfy. Thought of buying a throttle cable pair from Suzki dealer today so I could send away to have lengthened cables made. But they wanted £60! So found a new pair on EBay for £30 so ordered those. Might start re- routing the clutch cable and lengthening the electrics. I don't see why I can't ride with floppy cables on the original bars if I have to take down the road to have brake hose done and maybe lengthened throttle cables. Hope to have the new bars on in February some time for all the lovely weather!

Good luck on this project John, I can see your going to love it. I am over 6" and rode Mr Intruders (Daves) Bike with the ape hangers fitted and felt so comfortable, gotta say, not really my thing but it felt and made me feel as cool as a cucumber. I have a feeling that what ever happens with you buyng other bikes (as you do) this ones going to be staying with you 

captain crash wrote:

Good luck on this project John, I can see your going to love it. I am over 6" and rode Mr Intruders (Daves) Bike with the ape hangers fitted and felt so comfortable, gotta say, not really my thing but it felt and made me feel as cool as a cucumber. I have a feeling that what ever happens with you buyng other bikes (as you do) this ones going to be staying with you 

Yep Crash, this one is going to be my add-to play thing for many rears to come! Shitting myself a bit about cutting wires etc but with my friends on here standing behind me, I'm secretly having a ball!

Hi John re wires: remember to  stagger the cuts by approx. 1" so you don't have a big clump were they are joined up. If you can not get the same colour wires write down what colour goes with what so not to confuse yourself, these are simple things but sometimes overlooked.

John a good tip I use is, center punch  the handlebar and triple tree bar clamp were they are, so if you want to change them you can replace the in the same spot.

alfie92 wrote:

Hi John re wires: remember to  stagger the cuts by approx. 1" so you don't have a big clump were they are joined up. If you can not get the same colour wires write down what colour goes with what so not to confuse yourself, these are simple things but sometimes overlooked.

Cheers, I will remember that.. I've just been practising soldering wires and heat shrinking. I had one joint that broke after the heat shrink was on but then I realised I had applied too much heat and the solder had melted through the heat shrink sleeve - I will have to watch that!

John heat the wire you are going to solder first and apply some solder to it (tinning) then when you join them it will make a stronger joint.

alfie92 wrote:

John heat the wire you are going to solder first and apply some solder to it (tinning) then when you join them it will make a stronger joint.

Good tip - I've seen that done on a You Tube video. On the subject of wire, I'm wondering what gauge to get. Dave (Mr.I) used 8amp on his install as it was what he had handy. I don't want to buy thicker than necessary. Maplins has some 6amp which looks about right. Any ideas on this? I suppose I ought to check the specs to make sure sufficient load is handled.

Made good progress today. Re routed the clutch cable and tried it in position on the new bars....it works! Put the stock bars back but left the outsize clutch cable in position. Should be OK to ride like this at least to keep the battery charged. Spare throttle cable may arrive tomorrow so I can send it to be modified. I'm getting more confident to do the work myself. I had a look at the throttle connection - seems fairly straight forward. This way I can keep the bike in my garage rather than some service premises for all to prod and poke. I may well do the electrics myself and if I'm very brave, the extended brake line and bleed. If I get stuck at any stage, I can take it somewhere or even transported. But for the moment getting satisfaction being in charge!

Sounds like your confidence is building with every step John, keep up the good work

This is one of the best threads, I have ever read.  
We have known each other for 5 years now John & I never thought I would ever read a thread where you were going for it yourself. Great to see you doing the work yourself John & to see your confidence build in your own mechanical abilities is just fantastic.
Dare I say it, I a can even see you servicing your own bikes given time. Keep up the good work John.   

Nice one John 

Gotta say, I'm with John on this.  I'd touch very little on the Katana, but I've managed all the mods on mine myself (apart from specialist jobs such as engineering, fabrication, powder coating).  To be honest, if it wasn't for the forum, I wouldn't have had the bottle to do it myself.  I've found that being able to ask for advice & bouncing ideas off the rest of you guys has been a real confidence builder.

Thanks

Mr Intruder wrote:

This is one of the best threads, I have ever read.  
We have known each other for 5 years now John & I never thought I would ever read a thread where you were going for it yourself. Great to see you doing the work yourself John & to see your confidence build in your own mechanical abilities is just fantastic.
Dare I say it, I a can even see you servicing your own bikes given time. Keep up the good work John.   

 Dave. I have long admired the customisation you have done on your bike. Your ape write up was so comprehensive, I felt quite driven to 'have a go'. This forum is so helpful - it's like being in the best bike shop 24/7 ! As for servicing - easy peasy compared with fitting apehangers yourself, I can tell you! 

Sound well in John, just think all the extras you can buy now with the money you save. Win/Win

alfie92 wrote:

Sound well in John, just think all the extras you can buy now with the money you save. Win/Win

It's true! Fancy a fuel processor next!

Good man 

Coming along nicely   can you not disconnect the throttle cables to give you a measurement of how much extra length you'll require? same with the front brake hose too.

simbo wrote:

Coming along nicely   can you not disconnect the throttle cables to give you a measurement of how much extra length you'll require? same with the front brake hose too.

Yes that should not be a problem but I do have another one now as one of the housing screw heads is stripped  . I have posted in another thread asking for advice!

Things moving along slowly. Throttle cables arrived today. They are duplicate new stock items I found on eBay. These go locally next week to be lengthened using the end bits. I ordered my extended brake cable today and should have it end of next week. I have fixed the apes temporarily so I could measure accurately for cable extensions - 10" I have settled on. The bike is still rideable with the long clutch cable as hopefully it will be with 'floppy' throttle and brake. Final job will be the electrics. I've been prcatising soldering and heat sealing. Luckily this time of year the Intruder would hardly be out anyway so good time for a project. Oh what fun!

Slowly but surely is good, sounds like it'll be a thorough job when it all comes together 

Hey John, nice to see your cracking on with this. This bike and mod will suit you 

captain crash wrote:

Hey John, nice to see your cracking on with this. This bike and mod will suit you 

  Can't wait to get the new cables so I can get on! 

Picked up the extended brakelines today, HEL braided - very nice and much thinner than stock. Went for black to match the other cables.
Soooo now guys I need a bit more advice. As soon as I get the throttle cables, I will have everything I need. The question is what order shall I do things in? I have already re routed the clutch cable. Would it be best to do the brake line and throttle and still attach to the stock bars albeit a bit floppy. Then cut, solder and weld the electric cables and only then put everything on the new bars. Or mount the new bars and fix each item in turn on to those. The wires - do I need to disconnect the battery when working on them and/or is there a loom connector I can unplug maybe? Finally one for Dave (Mr.I) - where did you cut the electrical wires, nearer the bar end or the headlamp end clamp? Phew such a lot to ask but with all the expertise on this forum, may as well pick your brains! I feel quite confident, just the fine details...You Tube has been very helpful too.

Bluesman wrote:

 mount the new bars and fix each item in turn on to those. The wires - do I need to disconnect the battery when working on them and/or is there a loom connector I can unplug maybe? 

I'd mount the bars and fix each item as you get them, No need to disconnect the battery (although it won't harm disconnecting it) just don't switch the ignition on, I'd cut the wires so you have plenty of length either end so as to stagger the joints (as per Alfie's comment) and still give plenty of wire to work with, don't forget to put the fatter shrink wrap over loom before you start soldering, then when you've soldered each joint and shrink wrapped it, you can slide the fat one up to bridge the gap in the outer sheath hiding the whole caboodle.

Cheers Sim - sound advice 

John I just cut the wires where I thought I would find them easiest to work on, So it was sought of in the middle of what I could see.

Thanks Dave!
Now, I had a thought today about splicing the electrical cables on the bike....I'd like to be able to work in the house at a table to do the soldering/heatshrinking, rather than standing up in a cold garage. So I opened up the headlamp where I could see the loom connectors quite clearly:


A bit rusty so will give a bit of lubrication! 

Anyway seems easy to disconnect the cables and feed back through here:

Then all I need to do is take off the switch gear and take the cables inside to work on!

Off to get my extended throttle cables today so then I will have everything I need. Bought a one man bleed kit yesterday (Little Bleeder £4.99 from M&P) so hopefully the brake line swap should be ok.

Good thinking with the Light bucket, dam why didn't I do that  .

Ah Dave, you were the pioneer, I'm just following in your footsteps with a few tweaks! 
Anyway, voila - the left wiring loom!

Next stage, is the snip!

Had quite a good day today. My throttle cables won't be ready now until tomorrow so I decided to crack on with the brakes. Drained the front system, removed old cable and master cylinder/lever assembly. Removed right hand switchgear and bars. Installed new apehanger bars - bloody hell they look tall but I'm sure I'll get used to them. Put the master cylinder on to the new bars. Remembering where the clamps and toggles went, I fitted the lengthened brake cable and tightened up the banjos (remembering the two washers per bolt) when everything was lined up. Pleased with the length - the cable play was exactly right, top and bottom. Bleeding next - not a job I'm looking forward to but the one-way valve kit I have means I can leave open the nipple valve whilst I keep an eye on the master cylinder level. Well, that's the theory anyway - my You Tube Little Bleeder tutorial hopefully should get me there. If I can't get rid of all the air I might come running here for advice! It's all going too smoothly at the moment!

This great, you are cracking on Blues. can't wait for your first ride with them on. The smile on your face will nearly chop your head in half.